Amber and Turquoise


both are very suitable stones for buckles, while jade is the most durable. Curved nephrite is a good option, as quality jadeite in buckle size is expensive and difficult to come by. One has to select buckle stones for their strength as well as for the ease of re-polishing. Amber, even though it is soft, it is quite resilient and has the benefit of lightweight.
A gold buckle (even a small one) is a lot of gold, and it takes creativity to minimize the weight while building a strong structure that works well, looks beautiful and delicate, and is durable.

Amber Buckles

Baltic amber in gold and silver

22 & 19k gold.

The base plate and bur are made of silver.

With small diamonds rubies and 2 tourmalines. (as far as I remember…)

2004 India

(although high resolution due to an unknown setting error thees are very grainy and to an extent, damaged photos)

Archive Reference: BA05

Baltic Amber, and two Diamonds

20 & 22k rose gold.

India 2002

Archive Reference: BA04

Mexican Amber

and four Diamonds in 18 & 22k rose gold.
India 2002

Archive Reference: BA03

Baltic Amber

in a silver buckle. With Tibetan-Turquoise
Ruby cabs, and little gold. ‘Mid 1990s’ India.

Archive Reference: BA02

The first buckle

made from silver it was for a Baltic amber a friend brought from Poland, set with pink corals and a Tibetan-turquoise.

It took considerable effort and improvisation to make this buckle. These were early days and I had made just one other piece before this one. I knew next to nothing about silverwork… I remember spending days on the mountainside balcony, trying to solder together the large pieces with a 5rs blowpipe and a candle.

Made while in the Kulu valley, Himalaya 1994.

Archive Reference: BA01